Monday, January 08, 2007

On top of it all


Sunset at Lake Rudan
Originally uploaded by Steffe.
Sun shines above the Swedish clouds. Nearly three weeks of Christmas holiday is over and time to go back to Amster-bloody-dam. As a bridge between the linguistic regions I listen to the always fantastic Swedish jazz singer Monica Zetterlund. ”Säg några vackra ord. Kom och trösta och säg till mig: kom, vi går hem. Kom ljug mig en saga. Jag vill hem för när något är slut, går man hem”, she whispers of going home.

These moments are always a bit moody, must admit. Although my home now is in the Netherlands and I am looking forward to sleeping in my own bed, spending weeks with people I absolutely love and speaking MY language is always a bit difficult to leave behind.

So what happened:

- a nephew showing more and more personality

- woken up by a 4-year-old who jumps on the bed

- discussions among others on kids, signs on doors in Tokyo, TV violence, public transport, work, wasabi nuts, marriage, Idols, whether Finland is part of Europe, deadlines, Russian smoked cheese, Bant magazine, cucumbers, socialism, Sirpa, interviews, Turks, embarrasment, sex, Apple (not Chris Martin’s and Gwyneth Paltrow’s kid – the computer), middle class, President, happiness, KLM, Susan Kuronen, loonatics, Madonna, the level of tolerance among engineering students, immigration, Penelope Cruz’s butt, Putin, issues that turn you off quickly, SS-men, whether Norwegian is just Swedish written when drunk, whether you just have to tolerate irritating relatives, Dutch cabinet coalition, winning and losing, Jerry Springer The Opera, having a crush, farting, Normandy, bitter 40-year-old female journalists, taking over a Finnish weekly, power, PMMP, Schiphol, cynicism, divorce, older relatives, disastrous break-ups, Trivial Pursuit, sex tourism, after parties, fighting techniques, combining family and career, finlandization, a documentary on the biggest breasts in the world, narrow-mindedness, whether Carola Häggvist is scary, mental illnesses, taxation, booze, which bar to choose next, irritating flatmates, code of conduct when under the influence of alcohol and on whether this is really it and where to go from here

- a genuinely warm and beautiful Christmas with the family

- another viewing of ABBA’s ”Happy New Year”

- fish, scampi, vegetables, wine and in the end of the evening: less fear for getting old

Friday, January 05, 2007

On the sunny side of things

In all its brutality brilliant song from Jerry Springer The Opera (musical). Someone has also made an effort to make this video collage for YouTube.

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Another unstable-sounding woman

Discussion with a hip hop journalist a while ago at a workshop I organised for work:

Her:"So what kind of music do you listen to? Cos you said earlier that not really hip hop."
Me:"Hmm....it is kind of difficult to describe. I mostly like women and those that sound a bit unstable."
Her:"So what does that mean?"
Me:"People like Tori Amos, Cerys Matthews, Björk, Astrid Swan, Joni Mitchell, Carole King and so forth. And at times Macy Gray."

After that discussion the Swede Frida Hyvönen came and rocked my world with the wonderful combination of a piano, a delicate voice, Swedish chick look and provocative lyrics. She rules. Just listen a clip from her song Once I Was A Serene Teenaged Child and you know what I am talking about.

But now another lady has entered my life. Yes, she is the one in the picture and her name is Amy Winehouse. I found her first album (Frank) quite aggressive and suitable for days when I was already very pissed off. I forgot her existence for a long time. But now she is back with a new album, Back To Black.

Her voice is powerful - some sort of a a mixture of nasal and throaty. She sings sad songs such as Love Is A Losing Game. The traditional rhythm is slightly broken with a backbeat. The amount of instruments is admirable from violins to always so wonderful horns. But the best part is that she manages to sound very defeated and sad. She is The Woman of The Week in my (new) iPod.

Sunday, December 31, 2006

We, the Finns


Tarja & Lordi
Originally uploaded by antimega.
Last post of the year so time to go patriotic and nostalgic with a glimpse to the future.

Yesterday I was walking to a bar with a friend of mine when he asked:"So what are the good things in Finland compared to Holland? I mean what is special for you here?"

Good question. Yesterday afternoon built a case for a good answer. I went to the cinema with a friend of mine to see Volver. It became evident at the foyer of the cinema that we were not very original with our plan. The cinema (showing arty films) was packed with mostly middle-aged couples and groups of women. While standing in line to the ticket counter, I heard at least three times someone saying:"This was such a nice idea. I cannot remember the last time I was in the cinema."

There was a odd fuss in the line. People kept whispering to their company. The reason became clear when I glanced to the direction of the candy counter. President Tarja Halonen (picture, on the left) was at the cinema with her husband. She had also decided to see Volver. Was funny and superb seeing the president standing in line and munching liquorice. Like the rest of us.

I was highly critical towards Halonen during her campaign for the second term. I felt that she had abandoned her "primus inter pares" attitude and was going for a statesman strategy, i.e. de-politicising the election. I felt that her campaign team was trying to turn the elections into a measurement of her popularity rather than a selection of a political leader for Finland.

It has been a tremendous relief to see that she is back to her old strategy. She is one of the Finns. And that's where this story comes together. Finland is still tremendously flat. This is still strongly a country of sincere people. President goes to the same cinema with her electorate, she still has bad hair days, ministers do their Christmas shopping without security guards and the mayor of Helsinki does his groceries in the same supermarket as my parents.

And then the glance to the future. My New Year's resolution is to fight against cynicism, continue being a trooper for love and do things that matter. Abstract, a bit vague but very difficult. Happy New Year!

Friday, December 29, 2006

Video, video, video!


Kotipizza
Originally uploaded by lounassetti.
Brothers in the videobusiness:
1. Older brother
2. Younger brother (competition of the pizza chain Kotipizza)


Go and vote, my brother knows the moves!

Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Superb


Kiasma - Ars Fennica '07
Originally uploaded by scrabster.
The best thing in Christmas holidays is that you are allowed to break the normal rhythm. Yesterday I stayed up until 2.30 a.m. with no guilt. Today I just got back from my friend's club (2.30 a.m.) and do not feel like going to bed so I won't. This is one of the things that makes me consider full-time freelancing.

I went today with my parents to the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma here in Helsinki. Their big exhibition on Landscapes was as boring as it's title (Landscape) but the smaller exhibition showing the four candidates for the Ars Fennica prize made me smile. Good things are happening at the moment in Finnish contemporary art. Two of those wonderful things are called Elina Brotherus and Anna Tuori.

Brotherus is an already rather well-known for her photography where she mostly works with herself as the model. This time in the exhibition she uses video and photography for tackling nudity. Especially the video work (some in pic) struck me. Somehow it reminds me of my discussions on Finnish nudity concept with my Macedonian flatmate who visited Finland this summer. Brotherus' art (most of it - some makes you feel awkward) addresses nudity as something normal, pure and innocent.

At Kiasma they had a voting for the People's Prize for Ars Fennica. In the end I ended up voting for the painter Anna Tuori. She - as Brotherus - addresses Finland and Finnishness but challenges it with brighter colours and by using heavy brushes of paint. She goes a pit on the footsteps of van Gogh leaving her paintings full of spots and brushstrokes. The result is pure beauty, both in landscapes and when painting people.

I knew Brotherus already but must confess that I had never hear of Tuori before. That is why she got my vote in the end. She managed to surprise me with her superbness.

Saturday, December 23, 2006

Silent night


Graveyard
Originally uploaded by palluu.
It's Christmas Eve already. My brother just went to bed and I am about to hit the sack as well. It's peaceful and completely quiet. You never get this in an apartment building in Amsterdam. No clonks from the pipes and no one running up and down the stairs next door. Just silent.

Today we - my father, aunt and brother - did the traditional trip to the graveyard. We have been doing this for as long as I remember. We used to go to Karkkila on Christmas Eve but after my parents moved to Helsinki, we have started to make the visit on the day before.

I remember from my childhood that it was always very cold when we visited all the family graves, lit a candle and shared some memories on the people who have passed away. In the beginning it was mostly visiting graves of people who I have never had the chance to meet. These trips were done with my grandparents. Now we visit their graves which in a sad but beautiful ways reminds us that some things are evident. Just looking at the dates on the stone the memories come back very clearly.

As I have grown older, I have had the courage to ask my father who each person was and why some of them died so young. It makes the visit less ceremonial and much more personal. One of the siblings of my grandfather died just after her 1st birthday. As my aunt wisely said:"Times have changed in that way. In those times often a bad flue was too much for a child."

I have always valued this trip. It is a beautiful way of stopping all the fuss about presents, taking a silent moment and remembering the people who used to sit in the Christmas table. The right way to start a family celebration.

Merry Christmas.

Thursday, December 21, 2006

One page YES, next page NO


Tony Blair
Originally uploaded by WalkingGeek.
"I love your blog when you go on and on about Blair. I think then you're at your best." A friend of mine told me this in a bar a while back so here goes again.

I love British newspapers nearly as much as Blair. And when these two come together, I feel like it is Christmas Eve already. Yesterday on my flight towards Helsinki I managed to take an hour for The Guardian. Won-der-ful. Although being openly liberal and left, the best thing in newspapers of this size and quality is that they allow a plurality of opinions. Two examples of yesterday's The Guardian proves this.

On page 23 historian Anthony Seldon (author of Blair's biography - which I own, have read and which friend of mine mentioned as the reason for me being single) wrote an article saying that history will judge Blair as a political colossus. Seldon does not deny that Blair has made mistakes but the most essential is in the following statements: "Mrs Thatcher, alone in the 20th century, achieved three successive election victories, but she did not remodel her party as excessively as Blair has done.(...) Northern Ireland remains his greatest single personal success. Look for a departure announcement soon after March 7 next year, when he hopes fresh elections to the Northern Irelans assembly could lead to a breakthrough in the province."

When one turns the page, criticism on Blair is far more direct. Staff writer Joseph Harker writes a piece called "The problem is that he just doesn't understand race." In a superb way he writes a fictional follow-up speech to Blair's recent speech on multiculturalism. Harker is wonderfully witty in his critique writing in Blair's persona:

"I'm virtually clueless about what it's like to come to a new country where you are a marginalised minority, resented by the local population, picked on because of your skin colour and denied opportunities.(...) When I claim to be supportive of you, for example, by saying most Muslims are thoroughly decent law-abiding citizens, I should ask myself how an average white person would feel to be patronised by such a statement.(...) There are hundreds of thousands of Brits abroad who, for all sorts of reasons, don't learn a new language. And school results show that many white Britons have problems speaking English. So maybe I should try to understand a little more why some people, many relatively poor, may find it difficult to rush into language lessons the minute they arrive here."

This is what I would want from my newspaper. A variety of voices, both to the point, from highly different perspectives and both represented equally. And I think both of them are correct.
1. Blair has made mistakes (show me a politician who hasn't) but he is one of the great politicians of our time.
2. Blair falls all too often into this "hard measures needed" language to please certain groups although I am quite sure that he knows more about the subtleties of this subject than other EU heads of states combined.

Saturday, December 16, 2006

Going Christian


Christen Unie stand
Originally uploaded by Indindo1.
Well, it finally seems that this country is getting a cabinet. The media has been drumming yesterday and today of a cabinet consisting of CDA (Christian Democrats), PVdA (Social Democrats) and Christen Unie after it became clear that SP (Socialists, the big winner) and CDA do not fit to the same cabinet. PVdA was openly favouring a coalition with the Greens but the leader of the Greens has expressed that they do not wish to join the coalition. I must say that my respect of the leader of the Greens, Femke Halsema, rose when she pointed out that the coalition ought to be linked to the result of the elections. CDA, PVdA and the Greens all lost seats whereas the winners were SP, ChristenUnie and the right-wing Freedom Party.

It is difficult to say what this means for the future of the Netherlands. On the other hand CDA and Christen Unie come together on concern for the deterioration of spirituality, longing for traditional family values etc. Basically parties for decent and proper living. Then again PVdA come together on issues of social welfare, solidarity etc. I was slightly worried when I saw the first headlines but it is not maybe the worst possible combination. I would have been more worried about SP in the coalition both in the light of economic and foreign policy.

We shall see.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Never Gonna Give You Up

Rita Verdonk. Minister for Immigration and Integration of the Kingdom of The Netherlands. Managed to make one cabinet fall down by deciding that a Member of the Parliament is not and never has been Dutch. Now running a country near to a constitutional crisis by refusing to act on a Parliament decision to stop throwing out 26.000 asylum seekers. Lady with a mission, one could say. Stubborness of this fantastic song somehow reminds me of her "History Will Prove Me Right" attitude. Think of a minister singing to the parliament when watching the video.

Monday, December 11, 2006

Pure, unpure, old, not so old


Frida-Hyvonen-12
Originally uploaded by kirstiecat.
"Is this Simon&Garfunkel", my boss asked one day when I was playing music I got from my wonderful Turkish pop friends. They burned me a CD with music they thought I would like and they got it right. I found artists such as Sufjan Stevens whom I had never heard of before but whom both struck gold with me. My boss' remark get me pondering: am I stuck into music that should have been made before my time? If The Graduate would be made now, Sufjan Stevens could be the one commissioned by Mike Nichols. Stevens belongs to this group of unpure singer-songwriters who balance between witty and emotional. For me their testing and failing at times works much better than for instance Damien Rice.

I got further confirmation to the notion that old music is once again popular as I went to listen to a Swedish singer called Frida Hyvönen. Both my friend and I were quite exhausted when entering Paradiso but when Ms Hyvönen struck the first chords, we were sure that this evening would be just fabulous.

She was advertised as someone continuing on the foundations laid by Joni Mitchell and Carole King. Her solo performance and broken voice is very close to Mitchell. But when it comes to lyrics, I find her much less romanticising than my all-time favourite Carole King. Hyvönen sings of relationships and sexuality in a way that I think everyone can associate to. She does not paint illusionary fantasies but shows the beauty and absurdity of relationships and sexuality in clear and honest light. Somehow she reminds my angst-day companion A Girl Called Eddy but is more simple in her setup.

"You said you were a poet, man
your poetry wasn't obvious to me
when you said I had the Stuff that drove you Wild
but the feeling of power was intoxicating, magic
the feeling of power was intoxicating "

Something I need to point out even with a risk that it might sound shallow. The picture does not do her justice. Somehow in all the pictures on Flickr she manages to seem like a typical jolly outdoor-sports Swedish blond but I thought she was much cooler and much more distant. A simple black dress, blond messy hair and an extremely bright red lipstick on the stage of Paradiso made her look much sexier than in the picture, more like Debbie Harry than this Ralph Lauren ad chick.

Saturday, December 09, 2006

Finnish rock has a female future


MG 2241
Originally uploaded by villoks.
I was in Finland last weekend. I have developed a habit of walking both to the literary and music department of the Stockmann department store and checking what Finland is reading and listening to.

The crown jewel of my purchases this time was the second CD of the rock band PMMP. During the last months they have developed into favourites of the Finnish press. It is difficult to find a music, lifestyle or women's magazine without an interview with the two women.

Why has this happened? The reason is for once actually one that calls for celebration: they have something to say. The band consists of two women with firm opinions and courage to express them. I have listening to the CD on repeat now for a week.

As someone who occasionally has a strong longing for Finnish language, PMMP is just the right medication. They play with words and handle real problems such as domestic violence. As they said in one of the dozen interviews, they have been amazed how few artists in Finland have tackled this issue which touches a great number of families and women in the country. Could not agree more.

Just a few examples of their tone (translated from Finnish):

Chorus of Some Limit:
"If you hit once more, I will kill you. And I will hit with something that you have used to beat me. I will step aside from the way to heaven to somewhere dark. I will be taken somewhere where one does not even need one's name."

Chorus of Personally:
"Personally, you are Christ to yourself. Others need to wait for your salvation. And personally you are the only dictator, in the leading role to lives of others."

Unfortunately, in the case of PMMP one still sees how music journalism works differently for women. They have been described as a girl band and been compared to all sorts of bimbo duos. It is true that they are two women, they have a feminist tone but then again, their music is very much rock.

It still seems that the media has difficulties handling new paradigms, i.e. women making their own lyrics and compositions and handling issues that really matter. One sees that a lot of journalists still wish to search for the (male) mastermind behind the pretty girls.

Sunday, December 03, 2006

Goodbye


Boys don't cry ?
Originally uploaded by hazevi.
I said farewell to someone very close this weekend. This was only my fourth funeral.

Some things do not change. I am still scared of funerals and I turn over-emotional. The moment the music started in the chapel I searched for the front door and had to stand outside in the cold by myself for a bit. My eyes were filled with tears. And like every time before this, I found myself falling into a hysterical cry which sends shivers up and down my spine when it is time to walk up to the coffin.

But even with the angst I do find funerals to be a beautiful way to depart. It is a very concrete goodbye and makes us face the notion of mortality in all its essence. I will miss him but the memories are something that no one can take away from me.

There are two things that need public recognition. I have a great family – even with all its obscurities. And I am so privileged and proud of having friends who know just the right things to say – or when not to say a thing at all, just be there. Thanks. A lot.

Monday, November 27, 2006

Dope


Ursula Rucker (7)
Originally uploaded by HoolyPics.
This weekend opened my eyes for a new form of culture: spoken word. I have always known of its existence but never really experienced it live, on the spot. As part of my work I organised this weekend a journalistic workshop on hip hop which was linked to a hip hop film festival Blacksoil in Rotterdam. My view on this subculture has changed and I am damn happy about it.

My approach on hip hop landed previously somewhere inside the triangle of homophobic and chauvinistic macho gangsta guys, black civil rights movement and baggy trousers. As a result of this we focused strongly in our planning on the problematic sides of the culture. However, discussions during the weekend and witnessing the programme of Blacksoil taught me that there is much more. I am for instance quite fascinated how hip hop has played and more and more plays a role in giving a voice for youngsters of European suburbs and how rapping in local language provides the artists with better possibilities to position themselves and their message into the local and national context.

I am fascinated especially by two elements of hip hop culture: spoken word and breakdancing. Reasons for the excitement are the verbal mastery, empowerment of women and positive street credibility and aggression. In a way I feel very fortunate that my work allows me to dive deeper into this subculture. As the main character of yesterday's cinema experience, Borat, puts it:"VERY NICE!"

Thursday, November 23, 2006

Take me to the edge


Geert... eet een ijsje
Originally uploaded by jacco de boer.
The people of the Netherlands have spoken yesterday. The results are in the direction of the expectations but the scale is much more radical.

The governing party CDA (Christian Democrats) still keeps the number one position but the big winner of the elections is the Socialist Party (SP) which gained 17 new seats and made its way to be the 3rd biggest party of the Netherlands. The success of the Socialists hit hardest the Social Democrats (PvdA).

The other big winner is the far-right and anti-Europe Freedom Party (leader Geert Wilders in the picture) which fights against the "islamisation" of the Netherlands. Wilders and his colleagues rose from zero to nine seats. Most of the support shifted from List Pim Fortuyn, the radical politician killed just before the last elections.

Also the Christian Union came out as a winner. All the big parties (excl. SP) lost seats.

It is difficult to say what one should make of this. The far left, the far right and the christians win and all the moderates and liberals lose. The talk of the day has been the difficulties in forming a cabinet as neither the right, the left nor the grand coalition reaches a majority. The pessimist view is that the country is completely stuck.

An optimistic interpretation of the situation is that there were radical shifts in power. This could be seen as proof for the voters that in the end they still are the ones who make the call. Voting matters. The voters decided not to buy the setting laid out by CDA and PvdA of the elections as a battle of the giants.

An obscure detail is the new party entering the Parliament, The Party for the Animals. Left-leaning group did their campaign mostly on animal rights and organic food. Part of their success is due to the support from the best-selling Dutch author, Harry Mulisch.

After living two years in this country this does not surprise me that much. The Netherlands and its people seem to believe in experimenting, saying things in the open even if someone is offended and harsh debate. The good thing is that the concensus tradition of the last centuries often smooths things a bit in the end. But we just have to wait and see.

Wednesday, November 22, 2006

What does Europe think?


Elections in The Netherlands
Originally uploaded by FelixvdGein.
I was last week in Berlin. One of the things that come with my job is a membership in the Advisory Board of eurotopics. eurotopics is a daily FREE newsletter covering the main debates in European newspapers. I would highly recommend subscribing. Through it I have for instance noticed that there is really good writing in Estonian newspapers.

One of the good examples from eurotopics was a capture from Neue Zürcher Zeitung where Dutch journalist Hans Maarten van der Brink writes about the fuss around the book of Ian Buruma, The Murder In Amsterdam. The topic is once again on the agenda due to the Dutch elections today.

"Journalist and author Hans Maarten van den Brink expresses his views on the Dutch debate about tolerance with reference to the theses put forward by Ian Buruma in his book "Murder in Amsterdam". He notes that these theses have met with approval everywhere but in the Netherlands. "This raises the question of whether the Dutch brand of tolerance wasn't always based on negating all that is different instead of trying to understand it, and therefore has more in common with Apartheid – a term which is universally understood without the need for translation. The much quoted openness of Dutch society is in fact of a rather superficial nature... The lack of formal codes of behaviour appears at first to facilitate access, but it conceals a web of informal codes which inevitably form a barrier after a while. Irony is a conspicuously frequent feature in both private and public discourse. This is no coincidence: the ironist is superior by definition, and those who take offence do nothing more than reveal their inaptitude at the game." (22/11/2006)"

Monday, November 20, 2006

Supervideos!


061104
Originally uploaded by ldjjj.
The winners of the annual theoneminutesjr video competition were announced yesterday at the Paradiso here in Amsterdam. We hosted a group of nearly 30 youngsters for the weekend who all competed for the fame and glory.

It was a lot of work but great fun. Many of the youngsters were for the first time out of their country. We had participants from Slovakia, Austria, Serbia, China, Ireland, Finland, Sweden, Macedonia, Germany, The Netherlands, Lithuania and Romania. We had dinners, watched a lot of videos and went around the city. The best part of this work is being allowed to share some of their excitement.

Have a look at the winner videos:
Francis John Luke Wasser (category self-portrait) from Ireland: 24/7
Canshu Su (best of the world) from China: Chinese stamp
Mira Skolova (inside-out) from Slovakia: Girls

Wednesday, November 15, 2006

Diet Coke and Mentos

I know I am slightly behind trends with this but it is still funny. I was going on and on about this at the office when my colleague (mother of two) said:"Oh, my sons have been doing those videos for months already."

Saturday, November 11, 2006

Just about the cutest thing ever


Witch waiting
Originally uploaded by cwriter111.
I just returned from the gym. My flatmate was on her way out so I had the house for myself. I was organising my groceries as I heard banging from the door. In Dutch houses it is always a bit tricky to know the source of the clings and clongs so I did not react. Another bang followed. I peaked out of the window and heard voices of children shouting:"Yeah! Iemand is binnen!" (Yes, someone is inside!)

I went to the door and was met with a group of children with Halloween lamps and they started singing. As they stopped I told them that I will have to go and see what I might have.

In a panicky manner I went through the cupboards. I have a policy not to keep candy or cookies at the house due to my addiction to them. Due to this I ended up being the boring uncle sort of guy. The only thing I was able to provide them with were oranges. The ultimate sign of failure was that the mothers looked happy. I guess I live in a good area because even the children pretended thankful and a small group of them sang another song.

Currently I am hiding away from the windows. Out of oranges.

I wrote a while ago an article to the Dutch daily Volkskrant on the trade-off between freedom and security. I felt awful when a moment ago my alarm bells went off on the moment I heard the knock.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Wedding, the Turkish way

12.00 We meet by the statue at Taksim Square. My friend is smoking a cigarette. It is far chillier than in Amsterdam. When we hop into the taxi, he smirks:"Have you been to a Turkish wedding before?"

12.10. We realise that we are 50 minutes too early at the wedding hall. New couples are married every 20-30 minutes. A ceremony is just about to end and I hear the cheesy song Bryan Adams did for some movie. The couple is sitting on stage in a press conference sort of setting. We head to the nearby cafe for a cup of tea. The name of the mayor is on all the windows and his brochures have been carefully divided to all tables. In the brochure he shakes hands with elderly people and lists his achievements.

13.00 The ceremony starts. The couple and their witnesses enter the stage and sit down. Count Dracula sort-of-guy comes in and shakes hands. The couple state their names to the microphones, both answer "Evet" (Yes) to a question. After signing the agreement it is over. 4 minutes.

13.10. We stand in line to shake hands and hug the couple. Most people give gold coins. My friends break a tradition by not letting the guests pin the gold on the bride. A gigantic photomachine prints pictures for the guests two metres from the couple. The bride and groom look happy but the bride confesses that she is a bit cold.

14.30 We stand in front of a military base gate. The dinner is about to start inside but some men are not let in due to their long hair. One wedding guest has a major cut in his face because he learned only few moments before that he has to shave in order to get into the military area. The guard suggests to escort the long-haired guests to the barber shop. The wind from Bosphorus is too much for the Californian musician and his skimpy thin coat.

15.00 We start eating. The waiters address all male guests as commandants. We laugh a lot. The food is fabulous. Bride and groom mingle among the guests. No speeches are held. A house band plays around the corner evergreens with a Turkish twist.

21.30 I meet the married couple at a nearby mosque and we head to the evening party. One of Turkey's most popular bands is playing one floor up from our party. We stick to our folk and Efes beer.

00.00 American-Spanish Brazzaville assisted by Turkish bass player start playing. The singer David dedicates songs to the couple.

01.30 The groom - couraged by a big group of friends and few Efes - gets on stage with his musician friends and sings two-three songs to the bride. A girl next to me turns to me and says:"I hope they know how they lucky they are to have each other."

Sunday 13.30: I meet the couple in a cafe in Tunel. I look at them. They had a long evening. But I am convinced that they know how lucky they are. It makes me smile.